Up early with a bit of a thick head, but that wasn’t stopping me, today was ski day! The plan was simple, my mates would pick me up, I’d grab some ski’s, head to Schlick and tear the place up and head back… Sorted.
I enjoyed a hearty breakfast , the sort with only energy in mind then made my way to the pick-up point and we went to hire some ski’s, so far all going to plan, it was a lovely ride up the valley to Schlick, which is a beautiful resort where you ski down through the valley, the mountains tower above you on either side, it’s a wonderful place to ski and I was looking forward to it.
Arriving at the carpark, it was plain to see we wouldn’t be skiing here, the car park was rammed! So we all quickly made an executive decision to head to the Glacier!
The Stubai Glacier or Stubaier Gletscher is the sort of place that makes you feel small, but in a good way… It’s a proper alpine giant. The snow seems to stretch forever, the pistes roll out like fresh sheets waiting to be carved up. Often called the Top of Tyrol, and rightly so, this place towers at 3,210 metres. The views are outrageous, and that high-altitude silence settles over everything, the snow acting like nature’s own soundproofing. You can feel the elevation too. Back in my boarding days, I’d step off the top cable car, bend down to click on, and as I straightened up the thin air would hit me like a reminder of just how high you really are.
The area is vast, cable cars and T-bar lifts sling you between peaks and viewpoints, each one offering another incredible run to rip down. It was obvious from the start: we were in for a day of pushing hard, carving turns, and picking up some proper speed.
I’m not a great skier, I did a bit when I was a kid but changed codes and opted to strap both my feet to a board instead, I snowboarded for a good 10 years, none of this freestyle stuff, I loved speed and carving, I’d do the odd jump in the ski park but I wasn’t that interested, I’d much prefer to let gravity take me, taking up as much of the slope as I could (sorry skiers) carving huge S’s into the snow! I once borrowed my friends carving board, it was exhilarating! The speed and the control was a drug! I would have loved one of my own but I feel that I may have done myself some serious injury one day if I had!
I also loved powder days on the board, going off piste in the fresh snow and then leaning back slightly and feeling your body lift is a feeling like no other… Ah jeez I wanna go out on the board now!!!
Anyway, I made a decision to go back to skiing, mainly because boarding hurts!! If you fall, you fall HARD!! And my body, which wasn’t as young as it was, wasn’t bouncing back like it used to! So, I opted for two planks instead of one!
In many ways I’m making up for lost time on the skis so I struggle to keep up with my mates who have been skiing since they could first stand! I am very grateful to them for their patience and persistence.
We obtained our passes and took the long cable car up to the basin, we then took a chair lift further up and I clicked the skis on for the first time in 5 years! Thankfully it’s just like riding a bike, after a few minor tumbles it all comes back to you and I was doing a half decent job!
We carved up the place as much as we could, having a great laugh as we did. It must have been a tedious day for my pro ski friends and I am immensely grateful to them for sticking with me, it really made my day! It felt so good to be back on the snow again.
It was a very windy day, bitter cold and quite cloudy, occasionally the sun would come out which was great as it would help with the visibility of the different snow terrain. Taking the car to the top we would pause to take in the incredible views out over to the Dolomites in Italy and over to Zuckerhütl which is the highest mountain in the Stubai Alps, its name meaning sugar loaf in English derived from its conical shape and the way it holds the snow making it look like sugar.
As the day rolled on, the weather shifted, the temperature dropped and the snow began to fall. We settled in with a couple of Stiegls, a cracking Austrian beer, and simply watched the world turn even whiter. When we’d had our fill, we took a steady drive back to Innsbruck. I felt properly content, that quiet satisfaction that comes from earning the moment, knowing the work was done and a good night lay ahead.
Returning back to the family I was buzzing!! We shared stories of our day, the others had gone to Seefeld, a beautiful picturesque town, a high-plateau resort wrapped in pine forests. It’s quieter and more refined than the mega ski areas, with cross-country trails, winter walks and proper mountain calm rather than full-throttle après. Real Christmas card sort of stuff!!
A gang of us descended on Agidihof, a traditional Tyrolean landgasthaus (country inn) in Igls (if you haven’t already, check out part one where I talk about the magic of Igls.) Its all timber warmth, zero pretence just high quality tyrolean tradition. It’s where walkers, locals and families drift in for honest Austrian food, have a wonderful meal, then head back out under the shadow of the Patscherkofel.
We all enjoyed incredible food and drink and wonderful laughs and jokes of the day we all had. A perfect end to a perfect day! I was sad that we only had half a day left in this magical place.
We crammed as much as we could into the next morning, breakfast in an underground bistro before we ascended the Stadtturm, a 15th century watchtower which has an excellent viewing platform offering 360 degree views of the city! Dad and his mate, having already been up many times, remained on the ground to look after our daughter while my lovely wife and wonderful mother took in the sights. Before long the cold was getting to us, the type of cold that only a glühwein can relieve. Thankfully, the old boys had sorted out a round and some roasted chestnuts to boot! Not all heroes wear capes!
The clouds were thick and ready to burst with a dumping of snow, so we took one last trip up to Igls where we enjoyed Schnapps and cake with our friends, we all sat around the table in the window as the snow fell outside. This memory brings huge happiness to me as I write this.
The pull was too much, I had to go and play in it, so we wrapped the little one up and took her out for her first proper play in real snow!! She loved it, she couldn’t quite get her head around the feeling of it, but her beaming face told us she was happy! A few snow angels later it was time to fly! Our friends dropped us at the airport and waved us goodbye.
As the plane lifted off, I felt a mix of gratitude and longing. Grateful for the days we’d had, skiing hard, laughing harder, watching our daughter discover the world. I longed to slow it all down a bit but Austria gave us everything I love in a trip: adventure, simplicity and moments I’ll carry for a long time yet.
Happy Christmas all!
TM
